Knowing how to wash cashmere is the difference between a sweater that lasts a season and one that lasts a decade. The good news is that cashmere and wool both wash beautifully at home, usually better than at the dry cleaner, as long as you avoid the two things that ruin them: heat and agitation. Here is how to hand wash a sweater, when the washing machine is safe, how to dry it so it keeps its shape, and how to care for it between washes.
Can You Wash Cashmere and Wool at Home?
Yes. Cashmere and wool are both natural hair fibers, and gentle washing in cool water cleans them without stripping the natural oils that keep them soft. Many “dry clean only” labels are cautious rather than strict. A plain cashmere or merino crewneck, V-neck or quarter-zip can go in the sink.
Check the care label first, though. Send a sweater to the cleaner if it has leather or suede trim, a lining, or structured details, or if it is a blend with fibers that do not tolerate water. Our guide to dry cleaning covers what to expect there.
How to Hand Wash a Cashmere or Wool Sweater
Hand washing is the gentlest method and takes about 15 minutes of actual work. You need a clean sink or basin, a wool and cashmere wash (a mild baby shampoo works in a pinch), and two clean towels.
- Turn it inside out. This protects the outer face of the knit from rubbing and pilling.
- Fill the sink with cool water. Lukewarm at most, around 85°F. Add a capful of wool wash and swish to mix.
- Submerge and soak. Press the sweater gently under the water and let it soak for 10 to 30 minutes.
- Press, do not scrub. Squeeze the suds through the fabric with flat palms. Never rub, twist or wring, since that is how wool fibers lock together and felt.
- Rinse at the same temperature. Drain, refill with cool water, and press again until the water runs clear. A sudden change from warm to cold water can shock the fibers and cause shrinking.
- Press out the water. Ball the sweater up gently and press it against the side of the sink. Do not wring it.
- Roll it in a towel. Lay it flat on a dry towel, roll the two up together like a sleeping bag, and press down firmly to draw out the rest of the water.
Can You Wash Cashmere in the Washing Machine?
You can, with care, and some merino sweaters are labeled machine washable. Use these settings and the machine is almost as gentle as your hands:
- Turn the sweater inside out and zip it into a mesh laundry bag.
- Choose the wool or delicate cycle with cold water and the lowest spin.
- Use a wool and cashmere wash. Skip regular detergent, bleach and anything with enzymes, which break down the protein in animal fibers.
- Wash it alone or with other knits, never with jeans or towels.
- Take it out as soon as the cycle ends and dry it flat.
Never put cashmere or wool in the dryer. A single hot cycle can shrink a sweater by a full size, and that damage is permanent.
How to Dry a Sweater Without Shrinking It
Drying is where most sweaters are lost. After rolling out the water, lay the sweater flat on a fresh dry towel or a mesh drying rack, away from radiators and direct sun.
While it is still damp, reshape it with your hands. Square the shoulders, straighten the sleeves, and ease the hem and cuffs back to their original size. Flip it once after a few hours so both sides dry evenly. Expect it to take a day, sometimes two.
Never hang a wet sweater. The weight of the water stretches the shoulders and lengthens the body, and it will not spring back.
How Often to Wash, and Care Between Washes
Less often than you think. Wool and cashmere resist odor naturally, so a sweater worn over a dress shirt needs washing only every four or five wears, or when it is visibly marked. Between wears, air it out overnight on a chair back and give it a day or two of rest.
Pilling is normal on any soft knit, especially under the arms and where a sport coat sleeve rubs. Remove pills with a sweater comb or fabric shaver after washing, working gently in one direction.
Always fold sweaters rather than hang them, and wash them before they go away for the season, since moths are drawn to body oils and food traces. Cedar blocks in the drawer help too. Our guide on how to properly store clothing has more on putting knits away for summer.
Treat a good sweater this way and it softens with age instead of wearing out. For more on making a wardrobe last, read how to get the most life out of your clothing, then browse our sweater collection for the next one worth caring for.
