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Straight Razor Shaving

Straight razor shaving guide, how to shave with a straight razor by Jos A Bank
 

Facial hair fashions are constantly evolving. Thick sideburns and beards of the old days gave way to just beards, and then eventually to the solitary mustache. Regardless of your facial hair preference, however, there is one thing that is common among almost all men: we all have to shave. Nowadays there are myriad different types of razors, with different numbers of blades and innovative technologies to fit the contour of your face.

However, there is no replacement for the original straight razor.

A straight razor is beneficial for a couple of different reasons. First, it's cost-effective in the long run. While the upfront costs of getting started with a straight razor are higher than that of disposables, once you have the necessary gear, you're set for life. No need to buy cartridges and blades ever again.

The straight razor is, without a doubt, the iconic way to keep your facial hair stylish.

Acquire the Necessary Materials

There's a small amount of preparation that comes with straight razor shaving, and it's imperative that you have the proper materials.

The Razor

It's up to you, you can use your father's old straight razor, or you can shell out the money to purchase your own. A pre-sharpened straight razor will cost you a smidge over $100, but it could be worth it. Used razors will have imperfections in the blade that are more likely to leave your face worse for the wear. If you do decide to use a hand-me-down straight razor, make sure you get it professionally honed and save yourself the pain.

The Hone

Honing the blade of your straight razor restores its microscopic teeth to their original condition, allowing for you to have a painless, uniform shave. A whetstone with 4,000/8,000 grit that you can find at your local hardware store should do the trick, and last a long time.

The Strop

Once you've honed your blade it will be rough. Use a strop to smooth the edges and perfectly align the teeth. Like the hone, it's worth it to spend a little extra on a strop that won't ruin your straight razor or leave your razor hazardous to your face.

The Cream & The Brush

Invest in some higher quality shaving cream or shaving oil that will nourish your face and help you have a smooth, enjoyable shave. Use a badger-hair or boar-hair brush to hydrate the cream and apply it to your face. The brush works better than your hand in creating a nice, thick lather, and distributing the cream around your soon to be clean-shaven mug.

Master the Straight Razor Shave

Shaving with a straight razor isn't for the faint of heart, and requires a nuanced technique so that you don't leave the bathroom with tissue dots covering your fresh cuts.

Start with slow smooth strokes and make sure to shave in the direction of your facial hair growth at a roughly 30 degree angle. Best to practice on your sideburns first – they're the flattest part of your face. Once you become a bit more advanced you can make multiple passes, shaving first with the grain, then across the grain, and finishing your shave against the grain to achieve maximum smoothness.

We've helped you dress like a man by teaching you how to dress to impress on a first date or a job interview. Now it's time to shave like a man. Good luck.