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Signs that a Blazer Fits You Well
If you're in the market for a new blazer, you can make your purchase one of two ways: buy it off the rack and have it tailored later (or not), or take home a custom-tailored blazer that fits your body perfectly. Many of us would love to stock our closets with tailored clothing, but time and money sometimes dictates otherwise. On those occasions when you shop for a blazer without in-store expert assistance, it will help you to know ahead of time how a well-fitting blazer should look and feel. Granted, if you're looking for something more casual, a perfect fit may not be as important. Even so, being able to recognize the basics of a properly fitting blazer will only work in your favor as you browse your options. Here are several rules of thumb to help you out during those times you need to go rogue during a blazer-shopping excursion.
The Shoulders Lie Flat
When you're trying on a blazer, the shoulder pads should sit directly on your shoulders and lie flat. If they're hiked up or they sag, try a different size. Another indicator of good fit is that the seam where your blazer front meets the sleeve should align precisely with where your torso meets your arm.
The Length is Right
A tailor can adjust the length of a blazer slightly, but not by much. That said, choose a blazer with a native length that nearly matches the length of your torso. Not only will that make a tailor's work easier, a blazer that is too tall or too short may distort the look of other blazer features, thus making the fitting process much more complicated.
As a general rule, if you're looking at three-button blazers, the second button shouldn't sit lower than the navel. For two-button sport coats, the same rule applies for the top button. If you're only able to choose between short, regular, and long (which is likely), keep in mind that short blazers are ideal for men shorter than 5'7", regular blazers are best for men between 5'8" and 5'10", and long blazers are intended for men 5'11" and taller.
One final reference point in sizing up a blazer's length is the way it sits against your rear end. A well-fitting blazer extends at least half way down your rear end, without covering it completely or stopping above it.
The Sleeves Aren't Too Long
It may go without saying, but be sure to try on blazers while wearing a long sleeve shirt or something similar to whatever you intend to wear regularly under the blazer. Not only does that ensure the blazer isn't too snug, it helps with picking a blazer with the right sleeve length. You'll know a blazer's sleeves are the right length if they extend to the part of the wrist that meets the base of the thumb, while leaving roughly half an inch of your shirt cuffs showing. Sleeves should never be so long as to completely cover your cuffs.
The Girth Isn't Constricting
A blazer with the right girth will probably just feel right—not too loose, not too tight. As a visual check, button the blazer up completely and observe the fabric surrounding the buttons. If you notice folds naturally occurring in the fabric (usually in the shape of an "X"), the blazer is too tight. The front of the blazer should hang downward at the button. The slimmer you can go without folds occurring will make for a strong, form-fitting cut.
For more experienced blazer buyers, the feel of a properly fitting blazer is second nature. For those just learning what to look for, it's important to examine the specific details of the blazer—shoulders, sleeves, length, and girth—individually, to be sure it's right for your body. Please refer to our expert guide on blazer styles for details on how to choose the perfect blazer for your unique wardrobe.
