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How to Pinpoint a Dress Shirt that Fits

A well tapered dress shirt can enhance your look with a jacket or it can stand alone, powerfully framing your torso, neck and head. The trouble is, most men wear standard-sized (S-M-L-XL) dress shirts that fit poorly, as indicated by the presence of billowy sleeves, flapping backs, and folds of extra fabric that hang over the waistline.

Should you choose to bypass the next rack of standard-sized shirts you see, and instead investigate a collection of well-fitted shirts, here’s what to look for in a dress shirt that flatters your body, from the collar to the tails.

The Collar is Snug, but Not Too Snug

A general rule of thumb for determining proper collar fit is the ability to comfortably, yet snugly, insert one to two fingers under the collar when the shirt’s top button is fastened. This ensures the shirt won’t appear baggy or loose around your neck as you move around or turn your head, and that it won’t constrict your airflow and cause you to overheat or blush. Of course, if you don’t plan to wear a tie with the shirt, you can deviate a little from this rule, if need be; it simply won’t make much of a difference if your collar is unbuttoned.

The Cuffs are Positioned Properly and Don’t Shift Around

People don’t usually notice the fit of your cuffs unless the cuffs fit poorly (or you’re wearing cuff links). In this case, what they typically notice are cuffs that ride up your forearms when you raise your arms or bunched-up fabric around the upper seam of the cuff. For a proper fit, cuffs should be tight enough around your wrists that when you take off your shirt, you need to unbutton the cuffs first. As for length, properly sized sleeves have cuffs that extend just below the base of your hands when your arms hang straight down by your sides.

The Shirt’s Back and Arms aren’t Billowy

Perhaps the most noticeable and common mark of an ill-fitting shirt is its ability to make the wearer’s torso look like it’s attached to a parachute—there’s an abundance of extra fabric around the arms, shoulders and chest, causing the shirt to droop and sag, or billow in the wind. A flattering dress shirt is one in which the seam that connects the sleeve to the shirt’s body sits right on the edge of your shoulder; a shirt is too large when the seam rests an inch or more below the edge of your shoulder. While it’s true that the right shirt allows you to comfortably move in any direction, you shouldn’t be able to grab more than three inches of fabric anywhere on your back or under your arms.

Hopefully, you’re now equipped with the knowledge to identify a well-fitted dress shirt the next time you try one on. When each part of the shirt closely follows the contours of your upper body, you communicate strength, confidence and style, especially in crowds of men still donning standard-sized dress shirts that flap in the breeze.