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Dress Shirt Materials: An Introduction

Silk dress shirts, polyester dress shirts, dress shirt fabric by Jos A Bank
 

Dress shirts come in many different materials and blends; so many, in fact, that it’s easy to get lost in the options when comparing one against another. If that’s your challenge rest assured that, while dress shirts seem to have an abundance of unique names and looks, they really only fit into one of the three major material categories below. The one you select determines how the shirt will feel against your skin and which type of care you will need to provide.

100% Cotton

When it comes to dress shirt materials, cotton is popular because it’s the most breathable, durable and comfortable of the three. Also, the strength of cotton fibers makes the fabric amenable to a variety of weave styles and thread counts. Common cotton weaves include oxford, twill, poplin, pinpoint, and broadcloth, while higher thread counts (usually beginning around 150) are usually softer and more durable than lower thread counts. As a general rule, lighter weight weaves (poplin, broadcloth, and linen) are better for warmer weather, while their heavier counterparts (oxford and cloth) serve as better insulators during the winter months. Despite its advantages, one major downside to wearing cotton is that it wrinkles easily, which is why many people turn to cotton/polyester blends.

Cotton/Polyester Blend

Some clothiers sell dress shirts made of a cotton/polyester blend, with a certain percentage of the fabric being cotton and the rest being polyester. The reasons people buy shirts of this variety are usually cost-related; since polyester is synthetic and can be mass-produced it tends to be cheaper than cotton and silk. As previously mentioned, some wrinkle-free dress shirts are made with polyester due to its natural resistance to wrinkling. All of that said, if you’re thinking of buying a shirt with some blend of polyester, it’s important to understand that polyester (a plastic-based material) is far less breathable than other materials and less comfortable against your skin, and some people think its slight shine takes on a low-quality appearance. As a general rule, if you can afford it, steer clear of shirts with high polyester content and look for blends with 80% or more cotton.

Silk

If you need a good reason for why you should purchase a silk dress shirt, remember that the word ‘silky’ came from silk. Simply put, silk dress shirts tend to feel more light and smooth against your skin than cotton or polyester and they have a distinctively smooth look as well. On the other hand, silk shirts tend to cost more, wrinkle easily, and they must be hand-washed (even dry cleaning can damage them) to maintain the material’s integrity. That means if you’re going with silk, you need to commit to following proper care methods for keeping it looking sharp. Also, you’ll need to take special care with an iron, and be certain to turn down the heat (usually, irons have a setting specifically for silk) as silk fibers are much more delicate than the fibers in most of your other clothes.

In matters of fit, cut, and style, you have plenty of decisions to make, but when it comes to dress shirt material, your options are fairly simple and straightforward. That’s why it’s helpful to choose a material first: once you’ve picked the right one for your needs and budget, you’ll have laid a solid foundation for the fashion decisions that come next.